History Review

The books available for people interested in historical knitting patterns have been a little sparse in the past few years. Sure, there was Nancy Bush's Knitting Vintage Socks, and a few others that proclaimed to incorporate vintage style elements, but very few collections of actual historical knitting patterns. This, however, is not true of books from the UK. One author, Jane Waller, has consistently offered interesting patterns from the 20th century, but many of her books are sadly out of print.

One of Waller's books, Classic Knitting Patterns from the British Isles: Men's Hand-Knits from the 20's to the 50's, is still available through used book sites (my favorite is Abebooks) at a reasonable price, and I recently acquired a copy. I should clarify that what I consider a reasonable price for used books is typically under $20, but I will pay up to $50 for a very hard-to-find book that I really want. This book is a usable collection of men's garments (and a few "his-and-her" type sweaters), and I felt it was well worth the $15 or so I spent on it. There are reproductions of actual patterns from the 20's through the 50's, and most of the garments are classic and traditional, suitable for both men and women. There are the usual drawbacks to working with historic patterns - for one thing, in the past people wore garments that were much more closely fitted, so even the men's sizes tend to run in the 40" chest size range. If you like more ease or, like me, are not as tiny as you used to be, the sizing will need modification. Also, knitting from charts was not typical during this time, so the colorwork patterns are written out rather than charted. Of course, if you have charting software you can always chart your own. Plus, many older patterns tend to use fingering weight yarn (4-ply is the term of the day for a fingering weight yarn), so if you don't relish the idea of knitting a sweater at 7 or more stitches to the inch, you might want to reconsider working historic patterns. But the upside to collections like this one are you can use historic patterns without fear of working with delicate vintage documents, one of my real concerns about collecting and using vintage pattern booklets.

Another of Waller's books that is out of print but still available at a good price is The 30s Family Knitting Book. This one again offers more classic and traditional styles for men, women, and children, and even one pattern knit at 4-1/2 stitches to the inch "sized for the fuller figure," at a whopping 38"! There are garments that would be perfectly at home in a modern setting, and some that are merely instructive and amusing as examples of knitting from times gone by. Again, no charted designs are included, but this shouldn't stop anyone experienced in making their own charts.

If you are not so interested in tracking down out of print books, there is still good news for the historic pattern buff, since Jane Waller recently published a new book that is readily available, Knitting Fashions of the 1940s. This one has been available in the UK for a while now, but has recently been released in the U.S. The book delivers what it promises, offering  "Styles, Patterns, and History," but keep in mind that the author is British, so while some of the history is also applicable to the U.S., Britain is the main focus. I found more "glamour" type garments - styles that may not translate as well into today's more casual era, and fewer classic and traditional styles. Some of the garments made me want to cringe (Oy, the Bobbles!), but there are still some inspirational and noteworthy projects in this collection. Again, sizing runs small and if you don't wear a size 38" or smaller sweater or don't know how to adapt patterns to fit you, you may want to take a pass on this book. Some of the colorwork patterns in this collection include charts, and there are men's, women's, and children's garments included. I was delighted to see a new collection of patterns from days gone by in a usable format.

Some of Waller's other books, such as "A Stitch in Time" are out of print and expensive, if you can find them. I recently acquired a copy of this book, but returned it since it was not in the condition that the seller had advertised (there was a credit card-sized chunk of the front cover missing, which had been advertised as a "small cut to the front cover"). I have been mostly successful in ordering used books, but this time it just didn't work out. Still, I did have a chance to look at the book before I returned it, and again it focused more on the "fashion" patterns of various eras than on the classic and traditional. In other words, I'm not pining to own it, since there was only one pattern that I considered really workable for me in these modern times. But if you like old-timey eye candy and can find a copy at a reasonable price, do take a look.

There are some wonderful online resources for vintage patterns, many of them I have listed in my sidebar. One newer resource is Vintage Purls, which offers vintage pattern reproductions from New Zealand, and has some great garments you can try for free. If you are new to the world of vintage patterns or just don't want to spend the money on books that are out of print and hard to see before you buy, check out some of these great patterns, and find out if historic knitting is for you!

Comments

[Rhonda the Stitchingnut]

Nice research. I've picked up a few vintage leaflets on Ebay for vintage crochet handbags and knitted sweaters & accessories. I still plan to make a few of these, but need more time. I got many on Ebay, but I had to stop myself from even looking because it was so tempting to bid. I'm a pattern addict and need to go on a diet!!

[kasturi]

hi julia, thanks for writing about this vintage knitting author. i've also picked up a couple of vintage british leaflets, and the patterns are just amazing ~ i haven't made any of them yet, but they are just great looking. people used to knit such tailored-style garments!

good luck with your upcoming interview!

[Jane Waller]

Thank you for the lovely comments on my books; it makes all the hard work of producing them worthwhile. It's good to know that knitters all over the world can knit up all these lovely garments again.

However, please, please try knitting them up in 3- and 4-ply yarns (the stockists for these are in the back of the book). The garments have a wonderful quality, when knitted in these finer yarns, and can last for years.

By the way, you should check out a new web-based knitting magazine, knitonthenet.com. There's a beautiful free pattern in the current (2nd) issue, from one of my 1937 Woman's Weekly magazines.

best wishes

Jane Waller

[Margaret]

Hi, I work for www.shopyarn.com. Part of my job is to search blogs to find the latest books and shops throughout the U.S.

On shopyarn.com we are going to add patterns and other knitting related books and would like reviews about them. I saw your blog and would like to ask permission to feature the following quote on our site.

"This one has been available in the UK for a while now, but has recently been released in the U.S. The book delivers what it promises, offering "Styles, Patterns, and History," but keep in mind that the author is British, so while some of the history is also applicable to the U.S., Britain is the main focus. I found more "glamour" type garments - styles that may not translate as well into today's more casual era, and fewer classic and traditional styles. Some of the colorwork patterns in this collection include charts, and there are men's, women's, and children's garments included. I was delighted to see a new collection of patterns from days gone by in a usable format."

Thank You,
Margaret
Shopyarn.com
Margaret@directionpress.com

[Jane Waller]

In an earlier comment I mentioned the new online knitting magazine, knitonthenet.com

I am pleased to be able to announce that I am working with the two lovely people behind this site to bring out a new edition of 'A Stitch in Time, which - as you say - has been out of print for years. It is not a facsimile copy of the original, but what we think will be an improved version, with extra patterns. Check knitonthenet.com for news about when it will be available.

best wishes

Jane Waller

[Jane Waller]

We had a wonderful Launch Day for the new 'A Stitch in Time' at I-knit in London and in Liverpool with cat walks of all the garments and an excited audience.

One of the good things about the book, not mentioned above, is that Susan Crawford, my co-author, has sized up as many of the garments as she can ( all the original patterns are saved in there) which makes it available to a much greater number of knitters.

Now you can all knit from 1920-1950 in colour!

Jane Waller